A Week In Falmouth
We set off from Plymouth after several days of wind and rain in search of a quiet anchorage for a few days. After but a few hours we found what looked to be a great place - rolling pasture land dotted with cows and sheep, a small gravel beach and a rock outcropping. The light wind was off shore and although there was a slight swell, it was expected to lay down over night. Ahhhh, it felt great to be in the solitude.
We cooked a simple meal and relaxed. At anchor time moves slowly. The world feels quieter and softer. It’s a time to create, to imagine, to feel. Nothing is expected of me, no preparing for tomorrow - just being.
A couple of years ago, in Montenegro, we hung on the hook for 13 weeks, moving a few miles now and then, from anchorage to anchorage. It is one of my most cherished memories aboard Meraki. Moments slip away, in the stillness I found the space to reflect and rediscover that which I’d forgotten.
The next morning the winds had changed unexpectedly and the swell was rolling in. We lingered for a bit hoping it would change again but in the end decided it was best to move along. Finding no where else protected to anchor, we cruised into the mouth of the Fal River in the town of Falmouth on the Cornwall coast.
Unbeknownst to us, Falmouth harbor is extraordinarily deep, it’s 34 meters – over 100 feet. This makes it the third deepest natural harbor in the world and the deepest in Western Europe. We secured a berth in Port Pendennis a stones throw from the National Maritime Museum.
Father’s Day is smallest boat ever to cross the Atlantic - 5’ 4” long. It was single-handed in 1993 and took 105 days. The sailor could not stretch out and had lost 34lbs and could barely walk when he arrived. His world record stands to this day.
Renowned as a sailing town, Falmouth hosts a variety of regattas and sailing events throughout the year. It is also a foodie’s paradise, with numerous food festivals celebrating the region’s excellent local produce and seafood.
We visited the National Maritime Museum showcasing local and national seafaring heritage, famous vessels, interactive exhibits and model boat racing. With over 15 galleries, a boatbuilding workshop, a stunning small boat collection, artwork, maps and charts, and memorabilia, it was both enjoyable and educational. This months exhibit is the history of surfing and includes art and photos of surfing holidays in Cornwall throughout the generations.
From the top of the Lookout Tower you can take in panoramic views of the town and further afield, while from the very bottom you can see below the sea surface and gaze into the murky marina waters.
From the museum we strolled along Falmouth's high street, where we found cobbled streets surrounded by quirky boutiques, art galleries, vintage secondhand stores, international restaurants, coffee shops and cafés, ice cream parlors, micro-breweries and an array of Cornish pasty shops.
An artillery fort sits on the headland above Falmouth. It was constructed by Henry VIII between 1540 and 1542. Pendennis Castle has defended Cornwall against foreign invasion since Tudor times. Pendennis Castle played a pivotal role in defending against Spanish threats and enduring the tumult of the Civil War. At the outbreak of the first world war, Falmouth became a military headquarters. Britain was at first unwilling to participate, sending a small force of 160,000 men in 1914 to help Belgium and France against a massive invasion by German forces. By the end of the war Britain and her empire had mobilized 6 million men worldwide to fight on land, sea and for the first time, by air. Some of the men trained here in Falmouth.
From wartime adaptations during the American and Napoleonic conflicts, to the introduction of modern warfare technology in the late 19th century, Pendennis remained a strategic stronghold. Its pivotal role continued through both World Wars, serving as a training ground for troops as well as a coastal defense command center.
It was the first really hot day of the season and after our sweaty hike around the castle we decided to cool off with some water play. We’d swapped our stand-up paddle board for a kayak this year and it had not yet had it’s maiden voyage. We launched her off of our swim step and paddled through the mooring field and out across River Fal. It took some adjusting to get the seats and paddles arranged comfortably but once situated the gentle sweeping strokes were relaxing and it was delightfully cooler on the water.
We were loading the kayak back into its cradle aboard Meraki when a couple of folks stopped by and introduced themselves. Both from Wales, they own a Nordhavn 43 and were in Falmouth visiting with their Belgian friends, owners of a Nordhavn 55. We chatted briefly and were soon invited over for drinks that evening where we enjoyed swapping stories and lively conversation.
Once again I am reminded of the value of passing interactions and chance encounters. Honest engagement with foreigners can teach you things, and deepen you. And perhaps more important still, in a rapidly changing, infinitely complex, furiously polarized world, it can make you a better citizen, a better thinker, and a better person. It's a good way to live.
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