The Isles of Scilly
We were bound for the Isles of Scilly but the weather wasn’t cooperating. It was looking like one storm after another and we would be hunkered down for over a week - possibly two. Meanwhile we’d been running without our transducer which had been reading an error message since we left the Solent. Tom had spoken with Garmin and they’d suggested replacing the cable first to see if the simplest solution might fix it. As it was under warranty they shipped one to us - in Alaska! Tom was able to purchase one online and we’d been given an address in the Isles of Scilly so he had it shipped there.
At some point it became apparent that the storms were not letting up and if we were going to get to the Scilly’s we should take the ferry. A short walk and a couple of trains later we arrived in the city of Penzance where we spent the night near the ferry dock. It was pouring rain when we walked to the pier with our bags the next morning. The three hour ferry ride across to Hugh Town on the Isle of St Mary’s, was a super lumpy and roll-y ride and I was glad we were not aboard Meraki. St Mary’s, with about 1,800 residents, is the largest and most populous island in the Scilly’s. It covers just over six square miles and is the gateway to the archipelago.
As luck would have it our friends from Texas, a former colleague of Tom’s, who was born and raised on St Mary’s, was here for the month of May. He met us at the quay in his borrowed golf cart (the best way to get around the network of narrow country lanes) and we were whisked up to their rental house for an afternoon cuppa.
The Duchy of Cornwall owns most of the property on the islands. As heir to the throne, the Duke of Cornwall, Prince William, holds the estate. The house our friends had rented (from Prince William) is known as the Guard House. It is a 16th century stone building that sits just within the Garrison and has panoramic views of the harbor and several of the other islands. Prince William and his family vacation here in the summer. Higher up above this house, which is one of four residences within the fortress, sits the Star Castle (now a hotel), an eight pointed star-shaped artillery fort built to defend the islands from the Spanish raids. The Spanish invasion never happened though I understand the fortress did see heavy action during the English Civil War in 1642.
We had dinner at a local pub before retiring to our guest house across the bay and were delighted to find the most charming setting and the perfect room overlooking the harbor.
The next morning we met Richard at the quay where we hopped on his cousin Joe’s tour boat for a quick transit to the island of Tresco, the second largest of the islands.
Tresco is known for the Abbey Gardens.
Tresco Abbey Garden is globally recognized as one of the most impressive gardens in the northern hemisphere. It is a sanctuary for over 20,000 plants, rare trees and flowers, with over 2500 species that would not thrive outdoors anywhere else in the UK. Warmed by the Atlantic Gulf Stream, the archipelago experiences some of the warmest winters and sunniest weather in the UK. The unique temperate climate makes this garden unlike any other in the region. The plants come from the southern hemisphere and subtropics - from Brazil to New Zealand, Myanmar to South Africa. It was a complete joy to explore, with its winding paths and hidden sculptures tucked into fantastical Dr. Seuss-like blooms.
One corner of the garden is the Valhalla Figurehead Museum - home to over 60 historic ship figureheads salvaged from the many wrecks that occurred in the treacherous waters around the islands. I found it quite a haunting reminder of the perils of the sea here.
Tresco is also a safe haven to a growing population of Red Squirrels which is the most endangered wildlife species in Great Britain. In 2013, Dame Judy Dench had 20 Red Squirrels brought to Tresco by helicopter as proof of concept for their survival on these islands. We saw dozens of them - they are certainly thriving!
Another overcast day but no rain in the forecast prompted us to take a hike the next day. Following the coastal path around St Mary’s we ventured through dense heather fields and woodlands of pine and cypress, visited ancient villages and Bronze Age burial sites, scrambled over giant, other-worldly boulders, trekked across beautiful sandy beaches and up across grassy headlands. It’s a moderately difficult trail and we took our time, marveling at the seascapes, forests and farms before returning to our guesthouse exhausted and thoroughly satisfied.
Our final full day on the Scilly’s we hopped a ferry to St Martins for a leisurely country stroll. We’d heard there were very few tourists there and a number of artists. This island is home to approximately 120 residents living in three main settlements: Higher Town, Middle Town and Lower Town. The ferry dropped us off in Higher Town and we walked through the villages popping into tiny shops and galleries scattered along the trail. I felt as though I’d slipped into another century. This is a place that has been untouched by time and you can feel the energy and rhythm of life as it was lived long ago.
The beaches there are spectacular; white sand, calm shallows and great shelling. The low tide prevented the ferry from returning to Higher Town so we caught the early boat back from Lower town after an afternoon tea at the one modern resort.
Back on St Mary’s we tried to track down our transducer cable. The status of our order showed it had spent 2 weeks in the town of Bodmin, in Cornwall. It then moved to some other random town south of there where evidently someone named Rod signed for it and we were notified that it had been delivered? But it was still on the mainland!
It sat there for another day before we were told it would arrive on the next cargo boat - which sails only when there is enough cargo going to the Scilly’s. It was now the day before we would be leaving the islands and it had not materialized. I was quite convinced we were not going to catch up with it and yet, on our way to the quay to catch the ferry back to the mainland we stopped to chat with Richard outside the guesthouse. While standing there his cousin Joe drove by and handed us the package out the window of his car! It had arrived on the cargo boat that morning and Joe had called and asked them to search the container for our small package. Somehow they had found it?! The perfect ending to a fabulous trip.
Richard and Anna - kind, salt of the earth, exceptional humans.
Note: photos will not appear if viewing on a cell phone.